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Sunny, clouds overtake Mt. Kenya early, so still no clear views. Nor of the Aberdare Mountains to our west. Leaving, we drive west along a private ranch, seeing a lone Giraffe, a herd of African Buffalo, Zebra, and both Black and White Rhino! Rare to see the Black Rhino, rare to see both near each other. The Blacks were heavily poached, population down to low hundreds, but now number 1500 with efforts in Kenya, which has stopped poaching by shooting on sight. Unfortunately the poachers have moved on to other countries. South Africa is bad, so they've shipped White Rhinos to Kenya (where they don't normally occur) in order to help save the species until (if) South Africa gets its act together. Private ranches with a commitment and resources can make a difference in the conservation effort.
The ranch we follow, Solio Game Ranch, was owned by a Frenchman who was originally with Wrigleys. It's new owners are Kikuyu investors. At 17,500 acres, there are 6000-7000 head cattle as well that graze apart from the African animals. A bumpy gravel road along here makes for slow going.
Picnic lunch at Thompson's Falls, then we start our slow descent into the Rift Valley. We are only on the East Rim and it extends for miles. Our descent from 8000 to 3000 feet takes us through heavy rain. Muddy brown water races down the dirt alleys, floods streets in places, but we plod on, through Nakuru, then north, crossing the Equator again. By late afternoon we are on the north shore of Lake Bogoria, looking back out at the East wall of the Rift Valley through mist.
Every village, every roadside stop, we are the only whites. There were 4-5 local ex-pats in the bar at Naro Moru, and four in a van on Mt. Kenya, but that's it. When you think about it, you realize how much we stand out, of course, clothing, skin color, cameras and binocs hanging off of us. But kids especially are so excited to wave back at us.
This has been a long drive today. We pull into the Lake Bogoria Spa Resort; behind the gate it's a different world from the huts nearby, locals trying to sell acacia honey along the road. As with many of the lodges, we receive a welcome drink of juice and a hot washcloth to wipe our face and hands.
- comments
Tracey It is amazing how much things do not change. Sounds as if the road conditions are just the same as they were 20+ years ago. I am excited to hear they are making a difference with the rhino populations. I also found it so strange, near the equator, that is was dark at 6 pm and light at 6 am... ALL year.