Last night we slept on a bed that wasn't similar to a plank of wood. It was heaven. Now back on the train from the Buryat capital of Russia, Ulan Ude to Irkutsk. Only 7 hours and we have a compartment to ourselves, bar the parade of Russians coming past for english/Russian chats. The scenery is beautiful, very green valleys surrounded by forested mountains. Cute little wooden houses with pretty window shutters in blues and greens. The train hugs Lake Baikal...

A 24 hour train ride, many pine forests and an eternity at the Mongolian border later we were at the Russian border. Along with our Dutch room mates we were a little nervous, Russians have a reputation. They didn't let us down!! The process began with someone literally barking at us for passports, a cabin search and then a sniffer dog. After all that, and a further eternity, they let us in!! A toilet stop bought our first contact with a 'real' Russian. She ...