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If you had asked me a week ago what I was doing on this day I would have said that I was going to the Seonjeongneung and Yunggeolleung Royal Tombs (Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty). After yesterday's experience, however, I decided I'd opt for the indoors rather than fight the heat. I didn't want to need a vacation after my vacation so to speak. Last night I was sorting through my bookcase and found some old maps and guides that previous teachers had left and found out about Odu San Unification Observatory. From it, you can see North Korea on the other side of the Han River.
It was just my speed for today, and being Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving), it seemed like an appropriate activity. I had another late start, but I only also wanted to go back to the National Museum of Korea again to visit the third floor. So long as I had an hour, preferably two, it would be time well spent. I took the train from Incheon City Hall Station to Gyeyang where I transferred to Digital Media City and then to Geumchon.
From there I waited a half an hour for the right bus to come. The brochure said to take the 36, but luckily I checked Google Maps as well and found that the 900 worked just as well. So when the 900 bus came, I hopped on. I thought I had missed my stop so I got off at the next one. I saw the road name at the previous stop and walked down that road in search of the Observatory. I continued walking thinking that if I was wrong I could always turn back, but I was certain I was going in the right direction. Sure enough, I came across a lovely brown sign that designated a historical landmark assuring me I was going in the right direction. Appreciative of the scenery and thankful I was not stuck in traffic, I followed the arrow that told me to turn left and continue another 600m. I found out later that Bus 900 would have dropped me off near the Observatory had I stayed on longer, but the walk added a sense of accomplishment to the journey.
On the way to the Observatory, there is a pedestrian path for those of us who like to walk. There is a single panel of the large gate that is kept open for us to walk through. As I did so, I felt as if I were crossing a threshold. I was suddenly in a tree-lined path with five-foot walls on either side and a guardrail on the left towards the road. As I climbed, I saw some of the most magnificent views of the town and countryside. Though, that would be kept in a photograph, the picture could not capture the feeling in my spirit. It was a long low-sloped road that curved up the mountain. Surrounded as I was, I felt nearly enshrined in a time long past. I realized then that I was on, in some ways, a personal journey.
Being so close to such a threatening country I thought I would have been more afraid, not in fear for my life, just a more heightened sense of awareness. I thought of my time in Belize, standing on one of the great pyramids, looking out to Guatemala, where days earlier a group of men were beheaded in a barn, preventing us from making our weekend trip to Tikal. I wasn't afraid then; after all, I wasn't affiliated with any drug smuggling rings, nor was I trying to crack down on them. I was a tourist there to spend my money and they knew that. There was also no blunt anti-American animosity, like that held by North Korean officials.
Near the top, there was a path down to the Han River, guarded by three soldiers with guns in full uniform. Just on the other side of the Han lay North Korea. I reached the top of Odu San Mountain tired and accomplished. I bought my ticket and made my way inside.
In the first room, there were products from North Korea and panels discussing the strides the two countries were trying to make in order to create a successful market that would benefit both. The second showed pictures of Separated Families; every so many years families are able to be reunited for a day or two—children seeing parents, brothers seeing brothers, friends meeting after decades apart, grandparents being introduced to their grandchildren for the first time. The emotions captured were heart wrenching, especially as the family members boarded the bus to be taken home; hands clinged desperately to hands through the bus windows.
Next, I made my way to the observation deck and movie room. Using the binoculars I was able to see a small village on the other side of the low, yet ecologically teeming river. I couldn't fully understand the short movie as it was in Korean but it talked about the different towers and posts along the North Korean border as well as the village that I saw, which houses soldiers and is used primarily as a propaganda village. (A propaganda village, also known as Potemkin village, is used to make the country look more impressive from the other side of the border.)
I made my way to the outside deck and as I thought about the 34% of people receiving humanitarian aid (Global Hunger Index 2011; the number is rising) I felt helpless. Though, I admit I thought the statistic would have been higher, I still felt helpless. I found the room that listed the incidents over time between the Republic of Korea (South Korea) and the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea). It was disheartening. There were negotiations after negotiations and seemingly after each one, North Korea would strike. (According to the Global Peace Index, in 2011 North Korea was one of the least peaceful countries in the world, only more peaceful than Somalia, Iraq, Sudan and Afghanistan).
As I continued, I found rooms urging for peaceful, willful unification. They listed several reasons for unification and gave examples of successful cases (Germany, Vietnam and Yemen). The ability to draw on the full potential of economic resources (including employees) and an end to separated families are just two of the reasons listed. Unable to do anything else, I wrote my wish for a peaceful, productive, free, willfully unified Korea on a slip of paper and hung it in the Wishes room. As I left, I stopped by the altar outside that was created as a place of reverence, prayer and reflection.
Instead of taking the shuttle back down, I chose to walk. I needed to be alone to contemplate everything with which I had been presented. As I thought of the millions of people struggling to survive, all those going hungry under one of the most corrupt governments in the world (Transparency International 2012; North Korea is currently tied for most corrupt with Somalia and Afghanistan), my heart ached. There must be some way I could help, something more substantial than 'wishing'. I felt that instead of snapping pictures of a country I'd likely never see in person, I should be taking action. The whole way home I listened to The Beatles' "Let It Be" trying to find some answer. In the words of Paul McCartney: "And when the broken-hearted people in the world agree, there will be an answer, let it be. For though they may be parted, there is still a chance that they will see, there will be an answer, let it be."
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Colleen Wish I could have gone with you there for the actual visit, but from your very vivid, precise descriptions I have an intense sense of feel for the places you viewed today.