After leaving Windhoek we stopped at the pretty little town of Gobabis to spend our remaining Namibian Dollars. There were lots of Herero ladies walking around in traditional big brightly coloured dresses and head-dresses that stick out at the front like horns.
We crossed the border from Namibia into Botswana, where the roads were much better - tarmac-ed and smooth - but there were a lot of cows and donkeys roaming around on the roads so we had to keep slowing down to let them pass. Apparently it used to be the law in Botswana that, if you hit someone's donkey with your car, you had to pay the owner of the donkey 'blood money'. However, people became fed up with having to pay money to farmers for animals that they hadn't been tied up so the law was changed such that now, if someone hits a donkey, the owner of the donkey has to pay them!
There were lots of foot-and-mouth disease checkpoints (all over the country) where everyone had to get out of their vehicles and walk through disinfectant and the vehicles had to drive through disinfectant. Also, officials would get on the truck to check for raw meat.
We arrived at the campsite near Ghanzi, on the edge of the Kalahari Desert, in the early evening, in time to see an amazing sunset. After dinner we played a fun game Gretha showed us - she had a little play and we took on different roles and then she directed us.
In the morning we went for a fascinating bush walk with a group of San bushmen and a translator, Robert. They wore traditional clothes made from animal hides for the bush walk, although they don't do that day to day - for various reasons they don't live the nomadic lifestyle of previous generations, instead living in a big settlement. Some of them were teenagers who would normally dress in regular clothes but for these tourist trips they put on the traditional animal skins and learn the culture and traditions from their elders so that the knowledge isn't lost. Some of the boys are learning hunting - the one who was better at hunting wore a head-dress with a horn which signified this - when he improves further he will be allowed to have two horns in it.
They dug up lots of plants that were used for food and traditional medicine and explained them to us as well as answering all sorts of questions about their culture and how things have changed in recent years - for better and worse; the government now regularly sends a mobile clinic to their settlements so they can receive Western medical treatment. In the past women would chew a particular plant to make them sterile when they didn't want any more children (the husbands preferred them to have only three children for practical reasons because they were always moving around from place to place, though if they had three girls they were allowed to try another time for a boy); apparently most of the younger women use contraceptive pills instead but they are not good at taking the pills at the same time every day so they are not effective. Also, they now buy leaf tobacco from shops and are addicted to smoking it which causes many health problems. Some of the group were old ladies who refuse Western medicine and stick to the traditional way of life. The younger boys in the group drank the juice of the 'water tuber' for the first time (apparently many of the bush plants that they traditionally ate are very bitter so the younger generation don't like to eat them).