I didn't really view Varanasi in the best light initially after having stumbled off the sleeper train 13 hours later after about 4 hours sleep (aided by a sleeping tablet and earplugs thanks to the loudest snoring I have ever heard). Dan however, was refreshed after his 10 hour "nap"!! We crashed at the hotel for a while which was situated away from the main centre of Varanasi and much quieter, greener and calmer thank god. Had lunch at a place called "Burger King", not THE burger king but a rather strange restaurant that despite its name served South Indian cuisine and yet decked out in Egyptian decor....interesting. Varanasi was sooooo hot compared to the rest fo the places we had been before, really dry heat though so despite the 38-40 degree heat it was slightly slightly bearable. Got cycle rickshaws to the Ganges, not designed for Dan size I have to admit....but then jumped into a big rowing boat for a mooch up and down the river checking out the "ghats" and being serenaded by a man with a sitar. Watched the sunset, drank a huge amount of chai (and then prayed it hadnt been made with the "holy" water) and set some flower candles off in to the river and made wishes. Unfortunately my sunglasses managed to go in with the candles but unlike the flowers they did not float.....
The main ceremony was going on on the bank of the river so watched some of that, and got a bit close to dead bodies at the river front crematoriums - Varanasi being the most holy Hindu city or what not is the place of choice for dead people. Not nice when you are choking on ash. Wandered back through the streets avoiding little children who wanted chocolate, crisps, to sell us crap and encountered a cow sat in a shop, no space for customers. As you do!
The next morning we went back to the Ganges for sunrise and an informative little tour guided boat trip before wandering around the back alleys in the Old Quarter - unfortunately I didnt get to see much as was too preoccupied avoiding the piles of cow crap EVERYWHERE! and the flies....and the dust and the heat and more beggar children. Stopped for chai and got so harassed by kids wanting breakfast... all very well but I hadnt had any breakfast either and was not in the best mood after saying "no" approx 20 times in a row. It is really harsh but the locals encourage you to ignore them to stop the begging culture. What I find amazing is that despite India being such a huge country the government provides free state education to all children from the age fo 5 including a decent nutritious meal and yet their parents still want to keep them home as they think begging will be more profitable. Spent the rest of the day in the complete opposite of the squalor we had left in the morning - went to a really shiny new multiplex to watch a Bollywood movie in Hindi! Thankfully the plot was so weak that despite the lack of English we still understood what was going on. Prerequisite song, dance and action so had some Maccy D's fries and a lazy afternoon :o) Our last evening in India so had a really good meal in a nearby restaurant, sat on cushions on the floor, lots of shisha and beers and had a really good night. India has been completely different and amazing and I am sad to be leaving and yet in some ways it is also a relief to leave the craziness and everything behind. Can't believe I have survived (thus far!)....had no doubts Dan would hehe xxxxxxxxxxxxxx