A slow but noisy bus journey gave us our first impressions of Beijing; dusty, enormous, chaotic and not quite finished. After leaving the well-apointed hostel, we stepped out into baking 35 degree heat, bought a 20p subway ticket and headed towards Tiananmen Square. At this point, we hadn't counted on the 20th anniversary of the massacre, but when we were stopped and asked for our passports, we knew something was going on. And indeed, on that day, the main part o...