After a happy foray into Malaysia with Kirsty the girl I was back in the Middle Kingdom. I got straight out of the crap city of Zhengzhou and arrived in the ancient capital of Kaifeng. Famed for resolutely holding off China's wrathful wrecking ball and maintaining its oldschool charm, Kaifeng lived up to its reputation. For the first time I decided to ignore my Lonely Planet's suggestions and seek out my own accomodation, convinced that I could find cheaper. ...