guesthouse change after breakfast. expensive ($26!) place given the noise. next guesthouse heaps better with river view and a fraction of price. bike hire and set out to hills and caves. what a beautiful place!!! despite (again) all the drunken and stoned backpackrs. coulnd't help noticing the cow dung smell. reminded me of switzerland. altjough limestone mountains and rice paddies give a somehow surreal (is the swiss version the only real?) note, the smell of cow dung here is no different from home.