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First of all a confession. We misspelt Sossusvlei and now can't alter the album title.
We have had an eventful time, so grab a cuppa and read on...
Our day started early on Friday 18th. A frenzy of activity around our bakkie as no less than five forecourt attendants filled, wiped and washed.
Fully laden, we headed 350km south from Swapok' to Sesreim, the entrance point for the huge dunes at Sossusvlei.
The evening was fairly low key. Got caught in a bit of a sandstorm at sunset which nearly totalled our camera. Another night by the camp fire staring up in awe at the blanket of stars above. Now we get what they mean by 'a big sky'. There is so little light pollution in this remote area that you can see stars right down to the horizon. It really is something. Astronomers go nuts for Namibia.
We discovered two new things about Sue this night. Two deep rooted issues. The first, lizards. And the place was full of 'em. They 'bark' at each other in the dark, all around. Phill made the fatal mistake of correcting Sue, as she thought it was birds. The second and rather more concerning issue is that of head lamps. No, not the ones affixed to a car, but those that are affixed, with elastic, to Germans foreheads. I say Germans. They might not be. But it suits us to assume they are.
The night drew on. Up came the moon and actually spoilt the view of the stars, such was its brightness. Our wine induced sleep was disturbed at around 3am. Our tent was covered in lizards and it was pouring with rain. We sat up, too frightened to move. An eternity passed before the heroic Phill opened the zip and peered out. Jesus. Nothing. Flippin' breeze. Well it could have been lizards. It couldn't have rains though. That comes in February.
We had no problem clambering out of our tent at 04:30, following this commotion. We proudly sat in pole position at the entrance gate to the park, ahead of 4x4 wealding Germans and a bus full of Yanks.
Distances are big here and we all had to hurtle 70km along bad tarmac and gravel to the 4x4 gate and 2x4 car park.
We remained in front, 'Gerry' eating our dust. We parked up and awaited the shuttle bus. Phill took issue with the cost of this service, which only takes you the final 5km on roads of sand. Our 2x4 bakkie should have remained parked up.
Phill was determined to match the wits of these robbing bus drivers.
'We aint flippin' paying that', Phill announced. 'We have no choice, just pay up', Sue bristled. As the plumes of German dust approached at a ferocious pace in the distance, we looked at each other and with a vision of Montgomery planted in our minds, jumped back in our truck.
2km inside the gate, the Germans floated past, 4x4 engaged, no doubt humming 'The Austrian Hymm'. Our wheels 'a' spinnin'.
'Shanksy's pony from here on in Sue', a red faced Phill confessed.
We walked for around two hours in the cool early morning air. The moment slightly tarnished by the uncertainty of us ever reaching dry solid road again. We need not have worried, we made it with ease.
All showered up and ready for the road, we pulled up at a petrol station to fill up. No one appeared, so Phill took control of the situation and grabbed the pump. Now, in Namibia, there is always someone to pump gas for you. Still, no one came. Phill attempted to pay a couple of nearby mechanics for the fuel, but they didnt understand what this bizarre European was doing waving N$300 around.
Phill sheepishly sat back in the truck, slipped the puppy in to first and pulled away, FAST!
Sue, sitting silently had guessed. Yep, sorry sorry sorry.. we had indeed filled up and f**ked off.
'Anyone following us' blurted Phill, now hunched over the steering wheel and driving at brakeneck speed along unmade roads. We raced for an hour, before turning away from the main desert road and to safety. We really thought we would be caught. We weren't. Dukes of Hazard, eat ya hearts out. Never been so scared! Still, saved us thirty quid. No bad thing!
The road took us back to Windhoek and a feeling of almost returning home. The guy running the bar at the backpackers, Hans, welcomed us back. We ate Kudu steaks and swigged back a rake of frosties before bed. PaS
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