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You can be a backpacker or in our case in Lake Titicaca you can be a flashpacker. This was an easy choice when for $55 a night, you can have a double bed, fire place, jacuzzi and panoramic view of the lake in Copacobana. We stayed at La Cúpula , an independently run boutique hotel. The hotel highlights were the rooftop breakfasts, garden with hammocks and more importantly the pet llamas that joined you. It was a welcome slice of heaven on the gringo trail.
Copacobana itself is not a town that screams let's have fun. It's small, based on the tourist industry (you are guaranteed to be ripped off in the market/ shops) and unfortunately a little dirty in places. It is not all bad though, take a hike up to Cerro Calvario, you will be breathless at 4000 meters but the views of the beautiful lake are unforgettable at sunset. As you come back down the mountain you can't help feel slight joy watching other trekers huff and puff as they go up.
A key reason to stop at Copacobana is a trip to Isla del Sol. Many travellers choose to take the 2 hour boat journey and stay for the night. However, given our luck with accommodation at La Cúpula we decided to see the island through a day trip.
Our image of Isla del Sol was a casual walk for 4/5 hours in the glorious sunshine. It is the land of sun after all. We arrived to overcast weather with scenery similar to the coast of Cornwall. Undoubtedly still beautiful but not as expected. Least unexpected was actually how tough the walk would be. At 4000 meters we would climb up a hill, feel accomplishment at the top to realise we were going back down. This only meant one thing... we were going back up. Peruvians would call this the 'Andean flat' .
We walked from the north to south of the island. Definitely something we'd recommend unless you like brutal torture. You are either ending in the South with blissful happiness skipping down stairs, or I can only imagine crying as you start crawling up, comptemplating going home.
One other aspect to factor in is don't expect to stop for a leisurely break on your walk. We arrived at 10.30, we finished walking at 3 without lunch), had an essential pit stop of icecream/drink and got on the boat at 3.30. Fast turn around.
However, we saw this altitude and fitness test as great preparation for the Inka trail. Not only that, it is a real insight into the Andean communities in Bolivia; mules, llamas, agriculture and handicraft. Once again we revelled in the delights of our final landscape of Bolivia, a country of amazing contrasts. We also captured the history of the Inkan community seeing ruins from the 15th century (there are a total of 80 on the island) along the way.
This brought our 4 weeks in Bolivia to an end and it was on to Peru the next day. To round up our experience, here is a little of what we have learned about Bolivia:
1. Breathe slow and deep - most places in Bolivia are at least 3000m above sea level. Be ready to feel unfit, out of breath, as if you've suddenly put on 10 stone.
2. Don't run (see point 1)
3. Embrace coca leaves, toffees, tea. Soothe the pain (see point 1)
4. People carry machetes, it's normal (well in the jungle...). Kids play with their parents, don't even mess with them.
5. Embrace the llama, alpaca and similar type animals like vicanus. You are going to see a lot of them. They may even be on your plate.
6. Speaking of food, prepare for your stomach to turn in markets. Anyone fancy a cows nose in your soup?
7. On the animal note, you will see llama foetuses in the witches market, La Paz. It's all a bit weird but let's face it we all want to have a look.
8. The internet signal is terrible around the country, apparently this is because the Bolivian government bought a faulty satellite from China. Unlucky. Enjoy disconnecting from the outside world.
9. Despite what lonely planet says, ie you are going to get mugged /stabbed /kidnapped in La Paz, there are nice districts including Sopocachi.
10. In South America, you are likely to gain your most authentic experience of Andean culture in Bolivia. Particularly in terms of dress, you will see women wearing the top hats, full skirts and colourful striped bags on their shoulders. In the bag, there may be their belongings or a baby, sometimes it's hard to tell.
11. Bolivia is beautiful and even better it is cheap! Consider the price above of La Cúpula, we had private Spanish lessons for £3 an hour and we could have a 3 course lunch for £2. We actually hit our budget here!
13. The country has a wonderfully diverse landscape, which makes for unforgettable travels : the endless Salt flats, bustling and colonial cities, the ever green jungle, andean mountains and bright blue lakes. If there's any time to go, it's now.
- comments
Laura Molyneaux Maybe you could purchase a bag to put Xander in?! The market sounds rather weird and wonderful! Have fun at the next destination! Maybe you'll get to do a little more flashpacking!xxx