I don't think I mentioned anything about the albergue last night. Imagine if you will a rugby club house,very large changing room with a separate bar and entertainment area, that about fits the description of where i stayed. Although Tobias and I arrived I'm good time ie 1pm, there were already people there. The albergue eventually filled with 90 people in double bunks. Sleeping next to me was an older lady from Brazil. She had an interesting concept in kit transportation, contained in a series of plastic bags and was very keen to instruct me in the merits of ' zee introspection '. ' To make a good camino' she said 'you must have a good introspection '. The albergue fee was merely a discretionary donation and the evening meal was equally discretionary. I was invited along with others, to join a group of Italians. Just for the time to dry a few plates, I was treated to a wonderful Italian risotto followed by curizo and salad,omelette then fruit. We were all seated along a large oblong table and to one end of it a Korean guy was entertaining with free kneck massages.
I did manage to get some sleep, despite some random alarm going off 4 times at 3 In the morning. I was awoken with a slap on the bum from Angelica my new Brazilian friend who was clearly mad as a hatter and went on my way with Tobias and a few others. It turns out that he was an operations manager for a Swiss bank and travelled between Switzerland and Freiberg where his partner and daughter lived. We had some interesting chats about the Swiss banking system and the banking espionage that goes on.
The route took us through Santo Domingo de la Calzada. It hosts one of the most beautiful and magical churches I ever seen and that's coming from someone that's seen a few. In this church of Santo Domingo , they keep a chicken coop. This relates to the story of the Miracle of the Cock, a story belished over the years but essentially a Young man had his life spared because a dead c*** crowed and for this reason chickens have been kept in the church ever since.
We made it to a private albergue in Granon, sounds like 'granny on'. The decor inside I would describe as 1960s beatnick. The hospitallero was very welcoming. He did look a bit like a vampire in pyjamas, but I guessed that with the massive crucifix around his kneck, he couldn't be. He prided his place on being the first donation only albergue In Europe. The place was clean comfortable with a hot shower and he provided an evening meal too. Again all for just a deposit in his donation box and some interesting conversation.
Off out now to look around Granon.