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When it came to planning Europe, Bratislava only really got added to the list due to it being a short 1 hour train journey from Vienna. We knew very little about the capital of Slovakia, however we felt it would provide a different experience to the majority of Western Europe, with it formally been part of Czechoslovakia and then going on to be a relatively new member of the EU in 2004.
It certainly felt like we were in a different country, even if we were only 60km downstream of the river Danube. As we left the train station, our first impression of the country was a classic stereotype image of communist eastern Europe. There was graffiti covering concrete walls, prefabricated concrete panel building and a gloomy grey sky. However there were no beggars migrants or drinkers congregating around the doors of train station exit or in fact on any part of our 20 minute walk to our hostel. After a little research we discovered the Slovakians weren't the most accepting country in regards to the migrants and their politicians had made this clear. Stating that they didn't want them and would only accept Christians, so we can see why they haven't ventured here.
Our impression of the country didn't improve much as we arrived at our concrete, dodgy estate like hostel, where the receptionist gave us two free cans of larger exclaiming that it was "the best part". Actually the larger wasn't too bad even Nicole drank a bit, but it gave us the impression that we weren't stopping in a quiet relaxing hostel. Our thoughts were confirmed as we woke both nights to very loud German 18 year old girls, I'm sure we were just as annoying at that age. But after 4 months in Asia you get used to these sort of places, it certainly wasn't the worst and we made do with what we had.
In our research we discovered that in the initial communist period when Slovakia was part of the Eastern Bloc many of the historical buildings were destroyed in favour of the pre-fabricated concrete panel buildings that cover Bratislava. Which explains our depressingly grey walk to our hostel. Luckily a small part of the old town was saved from this destruction. As we walked from the hostel the roads changed to cobbles and the buildings to stone, like we had been transported back in time. The cobbled streets had a medieval look with Bratislava Castle towering above the city on a rocky outcrop originally built in the 8th century. Grand churches, narrow alleyways, stone arches and a very impressive town hall gave it a different flare from the other countries we'd visited.
We took the time to visit the town museum for €6 each, which was situated in the Old Town Hall. It gave an insight into Bratislava's history, which we tried to follow but got a bit lost. Our main enjoyment was walking up the clock tower and admiring all the decorated large doors with complicated locking systems. The ticket also got us into a separate museum next to the city hall that had an exhibition of period rooms situated in the Apponyi Palace. But when we arrived we were shown into a room focused on the history of wine in Bratislava, which we had no idea about, and then hushed down the stairs to the cellar where they seemed to be selling it. Let's just say we gave the wine tasting a miss as we hastily climb back upstairs to find all this old furniture we'd come for before we could be tempted by over priced bottles of wine. When we eventually found the period rooms, they were full of 18th century furniture designed in the Rococo style of the time. The visit was interesting even if we did get followed around by the muesum staff, which seemed to have little to do as we were the only visitors.
The 60 minute journey from the expensive streets of Vienna meant that we could afford to eat out again. The Slovakian cuisine is meat focused which caused some problems for Matthew who suck to tasting local beer rather than local food. However Nicole tried a local dish of dumpling with sheep's cheese and bacon which looked similar to lumpy rice pudding! Although Nicole assured me it was very tasty even if it did look like slop!
It was only a short visit over the border to Bratislava, however it gave us a little insight to its culture and history. It was well worth a visit! Now onwards to Munich, Germany for our next destination and a days travel through three countries on three different trains.
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