We got up at 4am to get the bus to the Mayan ruins at Tikal about an hour north. This is a tourist magnet so to get any chance of seeing the wildlife getting there early was the only option.

At Tikal we headed straight to the Grand Plaza through the jungle that is all around here. The jungle was alive, Tucans, and loads of other birds plus the distinctive howls from the Howler monkeys. We later found out that their cries were used as the basis of the T Rex soundtrack for Jurassic Park, it certainly gave the jungle that jungle feeling.

We had the grand plaza almost to ourselves, just two other people and a troop of Limas that you could get to within 6ft of. Mayan temples guarded the four corners of the plaza and offered a good vantage point from which to survey the ruin jungle surroundings.

About a couple of hours later a troop of local school children burst into the plaza making more noise than a herd of stampeding elephants. Any wildlife and tranquility had departed.

We headed off to find some more temples to explore. On the way there we saw some of many spider monkeys jumping from tree to tree. The day had become more of a safari.

We didn't have a guide, we normally opt out of guides whenever possible as they change the mood and it was a lot cheaper this way. Most people however were with a guide, they would stay as long as was necessary to explain the history and then move on, the canned experience. We would be looking up taking pictures in the trees, a guide would walk past with group in tow. The group walked past with no interest in what we were looking at, but would take a great interest when the guide later points them out to the group. However with that group they would have missed most of the other things we saw that day: emerald sparkly bugs, birds, butterflies and a pig type thing - we weren't sure what.

Guides are good for the historical facts for those people that don't want to read about them. They also give comfort to the package tourist wanting to be shelded from the world and any decisions bar getting out of bed.

I found myself again taking pictures of tourists. The ones that appear to have gone into Harrods - exotic locations department to get kitted out for seeing the Mayan temples. If there is a couple both will be wearing exactly the same - the David Attinborough look complete with hat and moskito netting. You can identify the American tourist as they usually where sandals with socks.

It was easy to get away from the groups and people. All the temples are separated by paths running through the jungle. This gives glimpses of atmospheric temples through the jungle as we approached temple clearings. Going to the more remote temples you would hardly see anyone most of the time at least. It is at these spots where we sat either in the early morning sun or afternoon shade, chilling and soaking up the jungle atmosphere whilst gazing at a temple.

The other place you could get away from groups was on top of the hard to get to temples. Temple 4 I think had 60 degree steps running up and it was a long way up. Liz opted out of this one, at the top you were rewarded with an amazing view of temples piecing a dense jungle canopy. Liz did however get a view of the jungle canopy from one of the other easier to get on temples.

Running out of water and not wanting to pay the over inflated cost for some water we headed back to the rattling bus that we came on - a good escapist day.