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We boarded our cruise ship, Norwegian Spirit, at Civitavecchia with minimum fuss and set about putting our complimentary drinks package into operation. This was probably a good idea as the captain advised that we would set sail under gale force winds. Having bought bargain basement tickets, our cabin was at the very front of the ship, the place where sea swell is felt most. We quickly fell into a deep sleep, surprised to wake next morning to calm seas, having slept blissfully through waves that apparently upset many passengers.
A sea day followed, which allowed us to explore the ship, relax, and further indulge in the bar menu. We were looking forward to this cruise as it combined visits to some much loved places we have previously visited with a few new spots we have long wished to visit. Our first four stops were old haunts, so we were happy to enjoy them at leisure, walking around and soaking up the atmosphere, not having to cram in attractions which we had done in the past.
Stop 1 - Crete
It was 30 years ago we last visited Crete and things have changed. Catering to the tourist industry has seen the port moderised, streets cleaned up and paved, market areas closed to traffic. Despite all this it had a somewhat shabby feel, which big cities often have. (Heraklion is the fourth largest city in Greece.) We barely recognised Heraklion, but we did recognise the Cretan souvlaki in pita. It always has chips added, which surprised us 30 years ago. We indulged in one after rambling around and then reminisced over a beer how we had been so impressed with the Palace of Knossos and loved exploring through the hills and villages further afield.
Stop 2 - Rhodes
This has always been one of our favorite Greek Islands, and although it has been three decades since our last visit, it retains all we remembered. The medieval city is a labyrinth of cobblestoned streets and beautifully preserved old buildings. We enjoyed getting lost in its narrow alleyways and were as awed as ever by the Palace of the Grand Master. The Knights of St John were well protected by city walls and castle walls and moats.
A beer in a boot shaped glass and a plate of calamari refreshed us while we accessed the taverna’s free WiFi. Then we scurried off like rats to find our way out of the maze and break free through one of the many city gates. We found ourselves back in the harbour where the Colossus once stood, now replaced by colossal cruise ships.
Stop 3 - Piraeus
Greece is a long time favorite country of ours. We love its food, its history, its people, its scenery, and these always over-ride her faults. So, we were not surprised to dock at Piraeus and find that the Metro was on strike. This meant a long wait and tightly packed bus ride to get into Athens, but once we arrived we enjoyed strolling down familiar streets, taking in familiar sights. We made our way to Monistaraki, and paid a visit to a taverna we first visited 33 years ago. Here we had tasted our first Greek beans and first drank retsina with a side dish of sliced apples which we dipped in the drink before eating. The same family own it. The same foods are served.
Stop 4 - Mykonos
Another familiar island to us, and although a new modernised harbour has been added and many new hotels sprung up, the strict building code has ensured its white, cuboid buildings retain the atmosphere of the Cyclades. We found the little square where we had stayed years ago, but Little Angelo’s was gone. Angelo had met us at the bus stop on a cold winter’s day in 1984 and been elated that the only four tourists on the island at the time had agreed to stay at his hotel. He had let us in, then promptly disappeared. When we eventually had to leave, no one could tell us where he was, so we left the rent with the airline office. Hopefully he got it.
Mykonos is all white and blue and tavernas and churches. The main town curves around the seafront and loses itself in a maze of narrow alleys that challenge even the most directionally astute. (Here, I think even my friend Helen would get lost, and god forbid my friend Margot should ever be let loose in the vicinity.)
Our free WiFi access today came thanks to one cheese pie and one spinach pie. Each day we treat ourselves to one of our favoured Greek foods, and a beer of course. Just for the WiFi.
Stop 5 - Santorini
Today we arrived at a place new to us, long on our bucket list. In the early morning darkness we sailed into the caldera, dwarfed by cliffs rising up to a sprinkling of lights of villages and the few remaining stars. It was breathtaking watching dawn break, the colours changing through black, violets, soft pinks, and then a hush before the sun exploded over the rim and you almost expected a fanfare of trumpets. The soft pink of the buildings turned a blinding white and lay on the cliff tops like snow, the distinct, multi-coloured layers of rock below, a geologist’s delight.
Santorini was everything we imagined, the postcards and tourist brochure pictures not lying at all. The tender took us ashore where most people took the gondola up to the village of Fira, having been warned off the donkeys and the donkey steps as being too steep and slippery. The gondola ride was steep, but provided dramatic views.
I took a local bus to Oia straight away to try to beat the crowds. The half hour ride followed the high ridge of the island and provided more dramatic views. Oia is the village most often depicted in photos of Santorini, and epitomises the essence of Greek Islands. Perched at one end of the island, it clings to the cliff top and drips down the side. One can follow a path all the way down to the water if so desired.
Back in Fira, the town was alive with music and flags, everyone waiting for the parade through the streets to celebrate the 28th October celebrations of a WWII battle. To access WiFi today I had to order a bowl of the delicious, creamy, thick Greek yoghurt with honey at a cafe overlooking the parade. The tough things we have to do to stay in touch with the world!
I sort of lost my way back to the gondola and found myself on the steps of the donkey trail. People I passed walking up this track assured me it was not too dangerous, so I followed it down, side-stepping the donkey poo and enjoying the amazing views from different levels.
Santorini was wonderful on every level.
Stop 6 - Valletta, Malta
Today gave us a new country. Malta sounds beautiful - the way it rolls around the mouth. (Or am I thinking of malteasers?) Turns out Malta, the country, is beautiful, full of history, old buildings, and breathtaking views. It was founded by the Order of St John, also known as the Knights Hospitaller, in 1645 as a refuge for soldiers returning from the Crusades. Valletta is the capital and its official name given by the Order of St John was Humilissima Civita Valletta - the Most Humble City of Valletta.
Our ship docked in the Grand Harbour at Pinto Wharf beside a row of beautifully restored 250 year old warehouses. Today we decided to take the Hop On Hop Off bus, which allowed us to see something of the country side as well as the cities. Mdina, the silent city, was a highlight. The old capital of Malta is a fortified medieval town set on a high spot in the centre of the island. It is referred to as the silent city as no cars (except for the few local residents) are allowed in. The views over the island from the city walls were magnificent.
Back at the Grand Harbour we took the Upper Barrack Lift to the Upper Barrack Gardens and Valletta city centre. The lift is 58 metres high and provides wonderful views from the top. We enjoyed the gardens, the views and a stroll around the paved city streets.
Stop 7 - Messina, Sicily
Sicily was another new spot for us, so we went about exploring with eager eyes. The rock being kicked by the boot of Italy is separated by a surprisingly narrow strait - three kilometres at its narrowest. Home to The Godfather, the mafia, Mount Etna, and delicious products like wine, olives and cannoli, it evokes images of big, noisy family gatherings around tables of plentiful food. We did come across plenty of noisy locals enjoying food at outdoor cafes, though in smaller gatherings.
Messina is easy to walk around and the Duamo and bell tower, situated in the main square, were the main draw cards. The Cathedral was built in 1120 by orders of a Norman king and though damaged several times by fire and earthquakes, it is impressive inside and out. The bell tower contains the biggest and most complex astronomical clock in the world. At noon each day a complex system of counterweights, leverages, and gears moves, providing 10 minutes of audio visual entertainment to the crowds gathered in the square below.
We accessed our WiFi today thanks to coffee and conoli from a local cafe. Hopefully the Mafia are not yet tech savvy enough to steal from us in cyberspace.
Stop 8 - Naples
Napoli sounds so much more romantic than Naples, so we shall stick with the Italian name to do it justice. Napoli actually comes from Greek, meaning new city. Having stayed in Napoli in the past, we were happy to leisurely roam around, revisiting familiar sights. On this, the last day of our cruise, the sun decided to shine its brightest and the sky decided to turn on its most brilliant blue. The city came alive as the morning unfolded and turned into a throbbing, moving mass of locals opening shops, setting up stalls, sweeping streets and going about their shopping. The day ended with a beautiful, near full moon rising over Vesuvius. It doesn’t get much better than this.
Stop 9 - Civitavecchia
And so, 11 days on, our final port of call and disembarkation point was Civitavecchia. It was a brilliant cruise. We were lucky with the weather, fine and warm all the way. Being the end of season, we didn’t have to contend with too many crowds and were often the only cruise ship in the ports visited. The Norwegian Spirit is one of Norwegian’s older ships, but it is probably the cleanest. Staff never stopped cleaning, dusting, polishing, and painting every possible nook and cranny. We liked the casualness of the ship and the friendliness of staff. We liked that things were always on time and that you never had to line up for shows or meals or getting on and off the ship. Everything was laid back, but efficient. We liked our special deal which included pre-paid gratuities, a free drinks package and onboard credit. We actually got off the ship with a cheque for unused onboard credit. First time ever we have made money cruising!
Now onto looking after ourselves as we head to Croatia.
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