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I was sat enjoying the last of my extended breakfast, flicking through the Lonely Planet, when I came across the opening paragraph for Inle Lake and Shan State. It reads 'With rebel groups, warlords and drug dealers living in its mysterious mountains, Shan State is largely unexplored by and off-limits to foreigners'. Although I've merely scratched the surface, besides the soldier at the Palaung Village, I haven't found any evidence to suggest such things. Maybe the author had been to different parts but I've spent the last week in the Shan State and I've enjoyed every minute. I would recommend anyone visiting this part of the world.
It was another interesting bus ride from Hsipaw, being the only tourist on the bus, I received a lot of attention, stares and eventually smiles from the locals. The roads through the mountains were fantastic and would have been enjoyed in anything other than a crowded night bus. The bus terminated on the edge of the city at around 6 in the morning. With little sleep, I can't say I was in the best frame of mind when I was greeted by the swarm of local boatmen shouting their various sales pitches. Politely refusing their offers, I grabbed my bag from under the bus and made my way to the nearest hostel- wherever it happened to be. There's a wide range of hotels, hostels and guest houses here, making Inle Lake a hotspot for all kinds of tourists and holidaymakers. A short walk from town, I came across The Little Inn, where individual bungalows serve as the rooms. Luxuries have been spared but the basics, such as a shower and a bed, are there. An early check-in meant I could ditch my bag, freshen myself up and venture back out; hopefully to explore the Lake.
It wasn't long before I was reproached by the boatmen that I managed to escape earlier that morning. Rather than getting to choose one of them, they picked me, so my guide for the day was man named Danger, at least that what I think he said. He assured me his boat was the fastest and that his English was the best- music to my little tourist ears. How true it was, I didn't really care.
It was an action-packed day out on the lake and the weather was perfect which made it even better. The lake itself is encircled by rugged, green mountains that tower above the lake and its inhabitants. The day consisted of various floating stop-offs including silver and goldsmiths, lotus and silk workshops, a blacksmiths' forge, a teak workshop and my favourite, a chiroot (cigar) maker. I got to try the different chiroots that they made, using various tobaccos and then attempt at rolling my own. Despite my best efforts, they were never as good as theirs and I certainly wouldn't have been able to make the 800 a day that they do. As we made our way back, we got caught in the mother of all rainstorms- what I now know as the daily 4 o'clock rain, that can be timed almost to the minute. It's onset is immediate and torrential, thunderous downpours continue for about an hour. Lighter but constant rain follows for another couple. After what seems like a lifetime, the rain passes and an evening can be enjoyed around the night market or in one of the many bars dotted around the town. Most of the restaurants and bars close between 9pm and 10pm, something that seemed strange at first but made sense the morning after when an early alarm was necessary to catch the morning market. It starts at 4am and closes again soon after 9. Because there's so many villages located around the lake, the market changes the host village every working day. The market I managed to catch was an hours cycle out of the village I was staying in, at a place named Khaung Daing. There were a couple of souvenir stalls but the vast majority of it was packed with locals battering amongst one and another, trying to find the best deal. The mornings catch was brought in off the boats which everyone swarmed to. Most of the fish were still flapping as they were bought to the stalls, freshness guaranteed.
On my cycle back from the market, I could have stopped off for a quick dip at the Natural Hot Springs (this place never ceases to amaze) but unfortunately I had to make it back in time for my Burmese cooking class. After two weeks of searching, I had finally found a local cooking class! Tucked down a tiny, wood-covered track was Mrs Thae Su's home, where she conducts her classes. The day before, when I booked my class, I sat with Su and together we chose a menu. I had to pick it the day before so she could buy the ingredients from the following mornings' market. Thankfully I was a lot less hungover than I was for the Vietnamese cooking class and I think I might actually be able to remember some of the things Su taught me. A particular highlight was the steamed catfish, freshly caught that morning, cooked with garlic, ginger, onions and tomatoes. Some other bits too that I may have forgotten...
It's going to be especially hard leaving this place. Not only because Inle is such a great spot, not even because it's my last real stop in Burma but because it's my last real stop of the trip! Besides a final stopover in Yangon and one last visit to Bangkok (God help me), that's my trip done and dusted. The last three months are a blur, time has gone very quickly indeed!
- comments
Katy What a brilliant experience, grabbing every opportunity you can. Great memories X look forward to seeing you x x x
Ma Can't wait for you to do some cooking when you get home! The gold, silver and silk markets sound fascinating! Safe homeward journey. So excited to see you xx