Our second stop in Cuba was the tobacco growing region of Vinales. About three hours from Havana by bus but a World apart! The highways around Cuba are surprisingly well maintained. They're modern and flat, probably one of the reasons for this is the lack of cars that use them! As most of the population wouldn't be able to afford to run a car, the highways are empty and so probably don't need much maintenance. You see many people hitchhiking on route, the coach guide said that it was because most people can't afford either the busses or their own cars.
Vinales' natural side was a little similar to many of the hill regions of Laos and Vietnam. Some flat open spaces surrounded by rolling hills covered in tropical greenery. The main reason for populations settling in the small towns (aside from tourism) is because they are the heart of the country's tobacco growing plantations, which is one of the country's biggest exports.
We stayed again in a local Casa Particular, nice little place just outside the Main Street. On the second night we paid for a home cooked feast from the Casa owner, something everyone recommends doing in Cuba. The food was good and was enough to feed a family of 6! The owner set up a nice little area on her roof terrace area as well. Pleased to help the locals out with a bit of extra income!
On the other days in Vinales we had a few bits planned. We hired a moped for 24 hours so used it to scoot around to all the main areas. Viewpoints, caves, a strange cliff painting on the side of one of the huge hills and loads of other local areas. Great thing when we've had a scooter or motorbike is just seeing so much of the local area and loads that you'd never get to see on foot or on organised tours. We went down local little back roads and explored all of the town, again, a great few days out on the bikes!
On the afternoon of the final full day we went on a tour around the valley, the hills and a local tobacco plantation. We had a great guide, he spoke perfect English and knew everything we needed to know about the local area. We also got the chance to ask loads of questions about Cuba in general, which we'd been itching to ask someone. About the revolution, Castro, Che, the economy, culture and all sorts. He was very passionate about Cuba (as most people seem to be) and was happy to help out.
The tobacco plantation part was also really interesting. Ran by a local family we saw the process from crop, to drying and then packing but most interestingly we also spent time with the owners wife. Maybe in her 60's or 70's she showed us how they hand roll cigars, really interesting. Funny seeing her causally rolling and smoking a huge Cuban cigar, she said she smoked about 5 or so a day! It was also explained how the government take 90% of the annual crop (for a small payment) for factory rolling and export and the rest is kept by the farm and sold locally. The big difference is that all the local cigars are rolled direct from the leaf with only natural ingredients added (one of which was rum!), the factories have a lot of other things added on the table dependant on cost and quality required.
After the tobacco tour we walked all around the valley and hills. On route we came across a big congregation of locals surrounding a circle ring like enclosure. Turned out it was the weekly, Friday afternoon c*** fighting gambling den! A crazy sight, shouting, betting, drinking (all similar to a gambling event like the dog racing at home) but also really gruesome and harsh for the c*** that fight. We stayed for a while and it was interesting to see how the whole thing happens but it wasn't for us and we moved on through the countryside. We saw the same in Asia last summer but on TV, a stark reminder when travelling how different other countries are to home!
A final night in Vinales, some food and a few late night drinks on the Casa veranda. Most of the Casa's have nice little verandas with rocking chairs you can just chill and watch the World go by.
Great few days before heading back to the city of Havana. Would recommend Vinales to anyone in Cuba, cool to see how the city differs from the slower life in the countryside and how the Cuban people interact and develop in regions with one of their most famous exports!