Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
As we are having our weekly organisational day today, it seems like a good time to fill you all in on our escapades since leaving Mongolia and journeying through China over the past 7 or 8 days.
We arrived at Ulaanbaatar Train Station in good time, however we think that the taxi driver may have fleeced us out of 1,000 Mongolian points, but seeing as though it was only 50p we let it go (By the way, our Swedish friends, Tim and Jens introduced us to the points system in Russia; it's just an easier way of collectively naming all the foreign currencies when you're travelling through different countries). Once again, there were no issues in boarding the train and we found that we had a 4 bed compartment to ourselves. Whilst organising our belongings, a familiar face walked past; it was that of English Tim from our last train journey. Funnily enough, he was only two compartments down from us again and he mentioned that the Swedish lads were also on the train but they were about 8 carriages away. Knowing what the Swedes were like, we thought it best to wait until the afternoon before we ventured up there as they would probably be recovering from a hard night of partying. After dinner, we did eventually seek them out and found that the train contained a lot more westerners, which after the Mongolian Sausage Smugglers that we endured the last time around, we felt a little more cosy and at ease. Later on in the day, we even had some friendly Chinese visitors to our temporary home; two friends called Gina (surely not her real name) and San Poi. They were very pleasant and gave us hope of a better atmosphere in Beijing. As things were going so well, I decided to try my luck with swapping my thick fleece coat (which was to be shed after Mongolia as it's not required anymore) for a couple of beers with a Mongolian Babushka at one of the stops. Despite my best sales tactics, she was having none of it so I reluctantly gave in and just gave the garment to Jens as he had taken quite a liking to it.
As per the previous train, the beer flowed well and Tim and Jens were once again innebriated at a border crossing. They're quite proud of the fact that they've not crossed a border sober since leaving Sweden, but in truth I don't think they've done hardly anything sober since leaving Sweden! We decided to take it easy as we were predicted to be there for 4 hours and usually there are no toilets in use for the duration. The reason for the wait is that the trains have to switch wheels when going from Mongolia to China which is a rather lengthy task when you consider there are around 15 carriages on the train. After everything was successfully converted and we had finally put an end to our lengthiest border crossing yet, the train set off and Anne and I drifted off to the now comforting sways and rocks of the railroad.
We were quite happy to have left Mongolia, as the pollution in the capital city is unbearable and the only thing colder than the temperature was the people. Everyone seemed to have a cold front and no-one seemed approachable. There were of course exceptions to this but even some of the ones who we had managed to open up still seemed bitter about neighbouring countries and just rather trivial matters. But I suppose this is their way of life, which like every other country, we embraced whole-heartedly and made the most of it. If we were to return, I think we would spend our time in the countryside as that was truly magnificent; breath-taking views at every angle and a simplistic way of life.
Back on the train to Beijing, we were advised to wake up early to witness some wonderful sights. I duly obliged and lifted my head off the pillow at around 7:30, only to open the curtains to find a power station and a grey bleakness reminiscent of a winter's day in Manchester staring back at me. It got me thinking of back home and then I realised that I was waking up before some of my friends and family had even gone to bed, as it'd be 11:30 in the UK. Quite a surreal feeling. I got changed and took up my familiar seat at the window with a coffee and my camera poised and ready, just in case these sights were around the corner. English Tim popped in and we chatted about everything and anything and just watched the Chinese countryside go by. After everyone had awoke and the Swedes had returned from their carriage, Gina from yesterday stopped by again for a chat; however it turns out that she was a frigging bible-basher and so we were subjected to some unintelligable drivel for a short while at least. The Swedes darted back to their own compartment for the last hour of the journey, but Gina had taken quite a liking to Tim, due to a necklace that he wears with a cross on it. She had asked English Tim where to find him and toddled off in the direction. All we know from the next 10 minutes is that Jens came back from the bathroom to find Gina and Tim with their heads bowed in prayer... Tim didn't have the heart to tell her he wasn't religious apparently! We finally found the spectacular views at around 12 noon and then I realised that the guide books go off Moscow time, which is 4 hours behind. I could have had a lie in.
After arriving in Beijing early afternoon, we were taken to our hostel by the free pick up we had arranged with the Swedes in tow, as they hadn't any plans so we felt it necessary to take them under our wings. We checked into the hostel and found Tim & Jens accommodation a few yards down the road at another place. After taking out some new points (see paragraph 1), we ate dinner in our hostel bar and the 1 pound beers on offer meant that we were yet again going to bed slightly tipsy, however, we had to function the next morning as it was New Years Eve and Anne's birthday. We all wanted a western hangover cure so we met the lads for what turned out to be a rather questionable 'English' breakfast. What made it worse was that for the second meal in a row, we had been given our food all at different times; 3 of us had finished our meals before the last one came out. We have since found out that this seems to be common practice in China and you've just got to roll with it, although I think it would drive a lot of westerners crazy.
As it was Anne's birthday, she was calling the shots and decided on Forbidden City. After looking on the map, we decided to walk it as it was a sunny day and it meant that we could explore the city more than just taking a subway. Unfortunately for me, I started to feel unwell and came down with what we'll call 'Beijing belly'. This meant that I was able to take an unscheduled tour of the Beijing facilities, which despite being plentiful, were obviously not 100% catered for western visitors. This was apparent in toilet stop number two (no pun intended) where I walked in to find a room no bigger than two metres by two metres, complete with a urinal opposite the door and a squat hole & western toilet somehow fitting in to the left. There was a little old chap fixing some electrics above the urinal and as there were no doors on either the squat hole or the western loo, I asked if I could use the toilet, thinking (or more hoping) that he would go outside and give me some privacy. This wasn't to be and he just motioned to the toilet when I asked if I could use it. My stomach wasn't going to give me anymore time to find an alternative so I just bit the bullet and went for it. It might have been a little better had another man not walked in mid-way through and taken a slash in the squat hole next to me. This was a low point. FML as some might say.
Toilet adventures aside, the Forbidden City was interesting but we probably would have gotten more out of it had we invested in the services of a guide. However, it just seems to be a reflex in rejecting their advances and therefore the buildings just seemed to be very similar. That evening, we celebrated Anne's birthday with English Tim and the Swedes in the Hostel Bar. We were mis-informed that there would be a party in there and so it was unfortunately for Anne rather uneventful. I promised to make it up for her 30th, wherever we are in the world.
Over the next few days the four of us lived the tourist lifestyle (English Tim had already booked his sightseeing tours and was to head to Hong Kong after a couple of days so we didn't see much of him unfortunately). We were taking in some of Beijings sites, including the Birds Nest Olympic Stadium and the CCTV (The Chinese equivilent of BBC) Tower. English Tim had said that Beijing was roughly the size of Belgium and it wasn't until looking across the skyline from the top of the tower that I believed him. The locals were very friendly and we got a lot of attention at parts; people were constantly saying hello to us and Jens & Anne even got asked for a photo on separate occassions. We also ate some very delicious food for a steal of a price. For example, 5 main meals and 5 beers came to around 30 pound - and that's expensive! After 3 nights, we moved into a room with the Swedes at their hostel and there we met more interesting people, including Dave from Hyde who is studying in Nanjing and Matt from Denver, who was nicknamed 'Passport Guy' due to the fact that he was stuck in Beijing after losing his passport whilst the US Embassy was closed for New Year. He eventually made it back home after a few days.
On our final day in Beijing, the four of us ventured to the Great Wall. We had booked a tour with our hostel and were promised to be taken to a reserved place where there are limited tourists and a part of the wall which hadn't been restored; we weren't disappointed either. The section we were taken to was magnificent and very remote. Apart from the Russian couple who were in our group, we only saw one other party of tourists and so it made for a fantastic experience along with some spectacular views. A definite must-see and one thing to tick off the bucket list. After we had exhausted ourselves climbing and conquering the different peaks which the wall scaled, we were treated to lunch at a local lodge. Whilst the other three played with the very cute dogs, I got talking to the Russian couple and it turns out that the man (I didn't actually get his name, so let's call him Vladimir) is a famous Russian TV personality. He has done journalistic and stuntman work for Russian TV and is now working for CCTV Russia. He's also had some paintings in galleries in London. He was a very interesting chap but unfortunately, I didn't get much of a chance to talk further with him after that as we were carted off back to the hostel. The lads and I discovered a new love of Dominoes (not the pizza) and we decided that it is one of the best beer drinking activities, so the rest of the day was spent in the bar.
We managed to book our train tickets to Xi'an a few days in advance but then it became apparent that we had underestimated the Chinese New Year / Spring Festival celebrations which are taking place on 23rd January. The Chinese all go home from the cities to their families and travelling anywhere during the month of January is difficult. Luckily we got a soft sleeper compartment with the Swedes, but onwards travel might be decided for us until we get to Vietnam (where the Spring Festival is also a big thing and so we may be limited further). We were advised to get to the train station early and the madness that we witnessed is pretty much unexplainable! Our train was quite luxurious and we were joined by Yolanda and Mark from the Netherlands, who we took under our wing in the morning and found them accommodation in our hostel, as like the Swedes in Beijing they had nothing planned. Maybe we are being too organised?!
Anyhow, Xi'an is not the same as Beijing and is visibly poorer. We have managed to get our train tickets with the Swedes to Shanghai but it'll be there where we part ways as we will be continuing south by train but they will take a flight to Bangkok. Mark and Yolanda leave today for Southern China as they were pretty much forced to take a train due to everything being fully booked. As I had mentioned before, today is for organising everything and tomorrow we will see the Terracotta Army before departing the day after. Obviously, we are not too sure on how or if we will get to Vietnam from Shanghai. Anne is slightly worried but I just see this as part of the adventure and a great story to tell. It's these stories which make the whole experience in my opinion. That and drunken antics with Swedish companions of course!
PS. Xi'an is not located anywhere near where this website seems to think!
- comments
Anne's mom Ilse Hei Anne ja Shaun. Blogianne olen tavannut pari päivää. Paljon on tielle tapahtunut.Todella mukava kuulla kaikesta. Hanski kävi täällä tänään ja ihmetteli, miten paljon teillä riittää juttua. Mutta tietenkin, eihän teidän elämä ole juuri nyt ihan tavallista. voikaa hyvin - ilman isompia vatsavaivoja. Kirjoittakaa Blogiin ahkerasti. Käyn päivittäin katsomassaa uusia uutisia. Kuviakin odottelen...
Martin Smith Wow! Sounds great guys, and I'm sure you'll get to Vietnam somehow! Take care x
Uncle Andrew just a quick note for you to remember what i said about Vietnam and visa'a..... Even though you have them in your passport and have paid they will try to get you to pay again at the border saying mistake you pay now....
Shauns Mum Well another enjoyable read! Bet you was mortified over the toilet incident Son as I know how private about these things you are haha and your Grandad Grumps would of been proud of your dominos as that was his favourite pub game! Continue to enjoy your adventures. ..also I've just emailed you xxxxx
Auntie Min just sat and read all your blogs again, and i think Andrew is right, you do need to keep all your scribblings and make a book out of it, very very amusing, been peeing myself laughing at your antics, so glad you're enjoying yourselves, love you loads xxx