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We left Vincelles where we had habitated for six days (next to a little restaurant that served Peach Melba) and headed down the Canal Nivernais towards Mailly-la-Ville. On past road trips to the area, we had discovered this tiny hamlet with just a small grocery store and one boulangerie/patisserie. But what it does have is a lovely little park with picnic tables, swimming area, tennis court, and a restaurant that not only serves ice cream, but makes one of the best burgers in France! Of course living in France is all about the food . . . but that subject is for another blog.
The day was hot (35C = 95F), the sun was bright and not a cloud in the sky. We cast off and headed to the first lock. Now in France, there are lockkeepers known as 'éclusier' or 'éclusiére, depending on the gender. The girls wear light blue T-shirts and the men wear dark blue T-shirts. Most are college students and this is their summer job.
When approaching a lock, I am on the bow and using my binoculars to scan the lock for the requisite T-shirt, to know that someone is there and sees that we are coming towards the lock. They then will either fill or empty the lock of water, close the paddles to stop the flow, and then open the gates to allow us to pass into the lock. They then ask you where you are going and they call ahead to the next lock to alert the éclusier that we are on our way and that the next lock should be prepared ahead of time.
Getting into the lock is when it gets interesting (and gives me heartburn). I have to throw the bowline around a bollard to stop the forward motion of the boat and hold us in position (Bob deals with the stern). Not a problem - if I could see the dang things!! Because we are a narrow boat and sit low in the water, if we are going upstream, we enter an empty lock and then the éclusier fills the lock, thus raising us up to the next level and we easily exit the lock. However, this means that I am throwing the line up a slippery wall, sometimes several metres tall and onto a bollard that I can't see!!!
Usually, but not always, the éclusier twigs to the problem and has me throw them the line and then they wrap it around a bollard, passing the line back to me. Coming back, we are going downstream and so enter a lock that is full of water and I simply play rodeo girl and lasso the bollards.
I have taken to practicing my French with the éclusiers. They usually have a bit of English and so we can get along quite well. I met one gal who has been an éclusiére for 18 years. I asked her what she does in the winter when the canals/locks are closed for 5 months. She said simply, 'I wait for summer'.
I hope you enjoy the photos that accompany this blog. We did make it to Mailly-la-ville where we took several bicycle rides down the towpath. Lovely, lovely time!
- comments
Katie I love this Penni!! You are a wonderful story teller (and always were.....ahem)!!You , more than most have the wonderful ability to make anything a wonderful adventure.