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Ruffec- Charentais, France May 11th and 12th
Rosemary and Peter determined to travel on with their bikes stayed at Villier Le Roux near Ruffec with John and Dydiane. Norman and Christine were already there and so on Sunday early John, Norman and Peter were off to cycle for bread and croissants at Villefagnon. By Monday Norman had left for his own house in Le Betail and that left Peter ,Rosemary and John to explore the Poitevin Marshes- la Venise Vert (green Venice) on their bikes. Arriving in Coulons was not encouraging, it was raining, the tourist office was exceptionally closed and the main road ferme. Ten minutes later the sun began to shine, the other tourist office was open and enthusiastic in its encouragement of cyclists ,and we set off.
What a pleasure, an empty road and then well signed cycle paths, number 1 path wound round small canals and harbours, pretty bridges and bosky lanes, All were relatively empty in May with only singing birds and croaking frogs for company. The sun shone and we stopped to take photos and laze on the river bank.
We arrived back in Coulons for a long lazy lunch by the side of the river, watching a few tourists trying out the boats. We then visited the exhibition of the Marais Mouille, translated by John as the soggy marshes. This proved to be extremely well presented, and we emerged with a much better understanding of this fascinating areas of France.
The following day was fine and we set off again. At this point it is important to stress that Peter and John had cycled yet again over to Villefagnon for the bread so had completed 11 miles already, Rosemary stayed in bed.
We set off for a local village where apparently wild orchids grew in the woods. A ride of a dozen miles through pretty villages, included one where John frightened a local lady by incessantly ringing his bell at her. She was a cousin by marriage it seems, so a long complicated conversation later, we once more set off. Reaching the village John and Peter stood on the corner puzzling over the map. Rosemary pointed out that the road was called the Rue des Orchidees which made it likely that it was the correct route.
So it proved and after a short detour we passed the railway bridge and found a grassy hillside studded with orchids. Miltary and Lady orchids are rare in the UK and only known at a few isolated sites, here they were abundant, There were also a number of bee and early spider oirchids and together they made for a spectacular sight. Cuckoos and warblers added to the atmosphere and Rosemary was only dragged back to the bikes with difficulty. Lunch however was calling. The restaurant at Courcombe provided a great lunch, French style and judging by the number of locals enjoying the plat du jour, it is not only British tourists who enjoy the food, the wine and the ambiance. Afterwards we cycled back in the sunshine not a long ride, but an amazing experience.
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