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Today's blog is by Josh Eisen
Officially day number ten but my first day on the path. We had been told the walk would be eight hours, and I admit to a little trepidation as we started off. This was quickly dispelled by the, blue sky, fresh air, and pastoral deliciousness of rural Palestine.
Several hours of walking, and rolling fields give way to a slightly less picturesque landscape of asphalt road and concrete homes, the background spotted by the odd Israeli settlement. We stop for lunch outside a water pumping station, where we are approached by one of the workers wielding a digital camera, just because. He invites us in for a much appreciated cup of tea, and I am once again blown away by the kindness and hospitality that seems to seep from the earth here.
After lunch, we leave the asphalt road behind us and head off down a wadi. The landscape here is breathtaking, tumbling rocks, lush grasses, and perfect afternoon sunshine. Except for the occasional Bedouin shepherd, we are alone, and i am struck by the fact that even in this tiny, crowded land, there are still these empty spaces.
The path continues for several hours, and my uninitiated legs are beginning to ache. Thankfully, our bedouin guide assures us that we are nearly at our destination. Minutes stretch into hours however, and the sun begins to sink behind the lip of the wadi. Even the more seasoned walkers among are beginning to show signs of wear, but are guide is adamant that we are almost there.
An hour passes, and we are wandering in complete darkness. Above us the stars are breathtaking, but I am too tired to really appreciate their beauty. We have been walking for nearly eleven hours, and there's not much I wouldn't give for food and bed. Finally, thankfully our guide finds a path up the side of the wadi, and we scramble and trip our way up to a waiting pickup, which whisks us away to the Bedouin camp where we'll be spending the night. The ride through the desert in the back of the pickup is a fevered delirium of icy wind, darkness and twinkling stars.
Arrival at the Bedouin camp is bliss. Hot tea, delicious food, a roaring fire, and stars like you wouldn't believe. I want to stay up and absorb the atmosphere and hospitality, but my body has other plans. I find a quiet corner of the tent and bed down. A thin mattress and dusty old blanket have never felt so good.
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