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The second largest city in Peru, Arequipa was colonised by the Spanish in the 16th century. Deja vu hits you at the grand main square with it's similarity to other colonial cities like Sucre, Bolivia and Salta, Argentina. However, what makes this town feel unique is the monestry, which is worth going to alone. Santa Catalina monetary, still a fully functioning convent once housed 150 nuns and 300 servants at its peak. It only cost the mere equivalent of £100,000 to enscribe there. The flowing wealth is evident through the nuns exceptional taste. Every room was picture worthy. Exotic colours of terracotta paired with bright blue walls, fluro poppies in clay pots, elaborate wall paintings, flowing fountains and perfectly symmetrical tree lined gardens.
After touring the city, you are in the heart of an adventure town. Arequipa is surrounded by mountains and volcanoes. Our first taster of the scenery was a water rafting trip down the river chili (arranged through our hostel Arequipa downtown backpackers). We were novices so ready to be overthrown with the rapids. It was reassuring that no instructions were given before getting in the boat. We were handed our paddle and off we went. It was at this point we were told what to do in emergencies, basically just jump in the boat. With Rory's power in the front, we didn't tip over once. Never in any doubt...
One activity down, we were ready for the next: hiking the Colca Canyon. It is a 2 day round trip and an absolute steal at only £25 pp (including transfers, accommodation and food). We dusted off the hiking boots that'd been hidden at the bottom of out backpacks ready for the trail. After a 4 hour sleep we were picked up at 2.30am. Silence followed in the bus till we reached the first viewing. The Colca Canyon is the second deepest canyon in the world and most impressive of all is the opportunity to see condors. With an enormous wingspan of up to 10 feet, we watched 7 condors swoop and soar in the sky. The Inkas saw the condor as a messenger between earth and the after life. You begin to understand why as they grace you with their presence.
From this point it was time to start walking. This involved a 19km descent in to the canyon taking 8 hours hours. Gravel passes and cliff edge drops made us watch our step. I avoided walking and talking as for someone who can only do one thing at once it has lethal consequences. At 5pm we reached the green oasis. Sun setting we all jumped in to the pool at the lodge. Freezing cold, we didn't stop for a swim. The evening with our group of 10 was brief, dinner, drink, bed as we were up at 4am for more hiking the next day.
To say the group were a little on edge for the climb that morning would be putting it mildy. It was a sharp vertical 3 hour hike to get out of the canyon. We'd heard of travellers so unfit they broke down in tears halfway and had to be carried up by a mule. The prospect of which sounds worse when you see the mules lined up on the cliff edge.
We started with our head torches on in pitch black except the light of the moon. Slowly the sun rose capturing beautiful tones across the orange lit canyon. A welcome distraction from the hike. What followed was steps, lots of steps, big then small and then big and small. We were told by the guide when we were halfway through, at this point those words were bad news for our tired legs. The rest of the hike was a mental game of 'you can do this', Rocky tune in the background till we reached the top (me before Rory...!) Once at the top you felt like a winner and the climb was genuinely worth it for the elation after. The tour ended with a trip to a hot natural spring, the perfect remedy for our aching muscles.
It wasn't all activities though, we rewarded ourselves with a few dinners out. The best of which was Zig Zag. Here we were given a bib to make our way through delicious alpaca, pork and steak, each sizzling on a hot slab of stone in front of us. Straight after the hike we also hit Chaqchao Chocolates where we indulged in a delicious rich hot chocolate. Lastly as our first stop in Peru, we thought it was only fair to go to the Museo de Pisco, which had every flavour assortment of Pisco Sour you can think of. All in all Peru was already living up to it's culinary reputation.
The next stop was on to cusco for our bigger hike, the Inka trail in 5 days. Exciting in itself and more so as our friends Adam and Sarah were joining us!
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