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Ok.So I'm now in the town of Karakol, which lies on the Eastern tip of Issikkul lake.Its been raining and cold all day.Yesterday we bush camped at the lake.IssikKul lake is the largest in Kyrgzstan and the second largest alpine lake in the world (after Lake Titikaka in South America).Its called IssikKul (meaning warm lake) because its got hot springs under it and doesnt freeze over in the winter.In July and August the water can reach about 21 degrees which is very warm considering the mountainous landscape its set in.Some people went for a swim but the weather wasnt warm enough for me so I just waded which was very pleasant.There are lotys of resorts around the lake and its the destination of choice for Russians and wealthy Kazaks. Kazakhistan is only just over the mountains.Despite this there are many run down parts of it.Some areas are built up and looklike pleseant sea-side villages with restaurants and shops but there are areas that look like a soviet war site, all crumbling grim apartment blocks and derelict houses. However there are also nice houses and lovely flowery gardens (the soil here is really fertile).Tonight we are staing in a really pleasant B&B which had a lovely fruit platter in its kitchen (its funny what you appreciate when you're out here). Anyway I'll go backwards now to telabout the last few days of China.On the 18th August we left Turpan.We got to Korla at mid afternoon.Out of there we drove to the Tienenguan Pass.We set up a bush camp amongst the sand dunes.I met an Uygur girl there called Zurgul.She was 22 and we talked for a long time on the dunes.She was really interested in Turkey and was asking me all about it.She looked about 16 but she was 22.Anyway her husband whos name was Yasincen said it was time to go home.I told her I didnt want her to go so both of them invited me back to theirs for something to eat.I checked with our group leader who said it was ok so off we went.The three of us on his scooter.She was so skinny so I felt like I was weighing the whole thing down.lol.Anyway their village was much like a Cypriot one.The houses were the same, made of stone with courtyards and there were grape vines everywhere. We picked some grapes wit her sister and her sister's son, Yakup.He was a chubby three year old and he was sooo cute.He kept laughing if we dropped the grapes.We managed more or less to talk in Turkish although sometimes we didnt understand eachother.Unfortunately the weather took a turn for the worse so they had to bring me back to the camp and go home before the sandstorm hit.However they brought the camp site a big bag of grapes and two loaves of spiced flat bread. I took Zurgul's address and then they were off.
On the 19th we drove through the Cross Desert Highway, crosiing the Taklamakan desert, the third largest desert in the world, behind the Sahara and the Gobi.At lunch we stopped and cimbed the sand dunes.The san was surprisingly cool ad as you came down you were half sliding so it was like skating down them.In the evening we bush camped at a beautiful oasis .In the evening me and Lynne sat on a dune and looked out over it.There was an Uygur farm there where the men were harvesting some kind of reed.I'd like to say more about it but im trying to speed through.
On the 20th we arrived in the oasis town of Hotan, which was more like being in the middle east than China. It was hot but there was shade everywhere, mostly under walkways and cafes covered in grape vines.I had mutton and pilav at the night market for dinner.After that we walked round the square.It was kind of surreal as all around the square was chidren's entertainment, inlcuding little cars, baloons,paddling pools with little boats in them, tables with clay figurines to paint, a toy train and more.Children were running around everywhere.Then in the middle was the Chinese military dong their drills.Hotan is famous for its jade but the specialist jade shops were really expensive.
On the 21st we vsited the silk factory just outside Hotan.There was a large main room with a collection of big looms.It was all girls and women there.There were about 6 ladies to each loom.They all seemed content and there was alot of socialising going on.The women bring their children to work so there were cute kids running about everywhere.The youngest girl working there was 13/14.All of them had on the Turkish style yemenis (a more relaxed form of village style headscarf).They were all Uygur.The Uygur women wear really beautiful bright colourful scarves and clothes.We also saw the rooms where they stored the wool and died it.Apparently the staff in the silk factories get quite a good deal (decent wages and working conditions). I must say the factory was cool and well ventilated despite the heat outside.That night we bush camped at what we thought was a nice spot with pastures and a river.We soon found out it was some kind of passage for trucks and they were going all night!Needless to say none of us got any sleep.A gang of young local boys (most of them seemed about 17/18) hung around our camp for a long time, drinking, smoking, swimming and dancing (what good Muslims they are!)They were drinking beer and some local firewater, made with ricewine that was about 40%alcohol volume.One boy got really drunk and his mothar came down.It was hilarious to see them together.She was fuming at him and he kept trying to hug and kiss her.He kept asking me to take a photo of them, but she was having none of it.The more affectionate he was being the angrier she was getting.I think he was trying to blame ourwestern influence aswell! the cheeky sod.lol.She went away and a bit later his friends took his beer bottle and packed him off home.I'm glad I wasnt in his shoes that night!
On the 22nd August we visited the town of Yengisar then into the capital of Uygur China, Kashgar.And thats enough for now so il update you more later.x
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