I haven't had time to write an update recently - all of November was spent attending my group's In-Service Training (IST) at our original training hub in Dedza. The original group of us that arrived in May is down from 22 to 18 volunteers, which is slightly discouraging. However, during IST the rest of us enjoyed sharing our experiences from our first few months at site. And during the second week of the training, we had the opportunity to bring a "counterpart" from our health centers - someone we anticipate working with on various projects in our villages - to further introduce to them to the concept of Peace Corps, as well as set goals for the upcoming months.
Following the counterpart week, we had a short break in which a couple of my friends and I went to see Lake Malawi! Very beautiful.
We returned to Dedza for a four-day language intensive course to brush up on our Chichewa. Then Peace Corps provided transport to Lilongwe so we could take part in the Thanksgiving festivities at the U.S. Ambassador's residence. An absolutely wonderful meal - and completely cooked by Peace Corps Volunteers! The chefs among us were given kitchen space and the ingredients their best recipes required, and charged with the task of cooking for well over 100 people. I've never seen so much food, and of such variety, in my life. Turkey was not available; however, we did enjoy two large roast pigs (yes, the vegetarians were aghast).
Returning to Magomero after a month away was difficult - to some extent, I had to reintegrate myself into the community all over again. Further, having decided during IST to shift more of my attention to various projects in the greater village area and at the school during, I had to delicately explain to my health center that I would not be there as often. While I learned a lot by faithfully reporting every morning to the under-five and antenatal clinics, I feel that my time ought to be dedicated to broader health education efforts. I also feel more capable and useful in terms of my own skills at teaching and training, versus jotting down numbers, making records and otherwise performing tasks the health center staff is qualified and actually hired to do.
Currently, I'm in Lilongwe - on my way to Tanzania for the holidays! Five of us ladies are heading to Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar for a few days. I'm looking forward to good tea, laying on the beach and catching up with friends. We have to take a 30-hour bus trip to get there, though - that should be interesting.
After the holidays, I feel confident I'll be ready to go full-steam ahead back in the village. I'm teaching Life Skills at every level (Forms 1-4), working with an AIDS support group to start selling eggs as an income-generating activity and assisting an NGO called Interaide with beginning a women's group for Magomero and a couple neighboring villages.
Though it doesn't quite feel like Christmas in the absence of cold weather and, above all, loved ones at home, some other PCVs and I got into the spirit of things by composing a "Malawian" version of the 12 Days of Christmas - using a theme of transportation trials and tribulations in-country. I think it provides a pretty accurate glimpse not only into the difficultly of traveling but also into the country's very unique culture. For reference, some vocabulary:
• Matola = flat-bed trucks which carry passengers
• ET = "early termination" of one's Peace Corps service
• Pafupi = close, in terms of distance
(Note: Malawians constantly assure you nothing is very far away because they
don't want you to be unhappy.)
• Agogo = grandmother
• Flash = to call a person's cell and then hang up, so the other person knows to
call back
• Iwes = children
• Chiponde = peanut butter
• Moa = beer
• Basi = enough

The 12 Joys of Transport

On the first matola ride it occurred to me, I'm a PCV desperate to ET

On the second matola ride, there appeared to be TWO LYING DRIVERS (pafupi pafupi), and a PCV desperate to ET

On the third matola ride, there appeared to be THREE WASHED OUT BRIDGES, two lying drivers (pafupi pafupi), and a PCV desperate to ET

On the fourth matola ride, there appeared to be FOUR MARRIAGE OFFERS (I want to know you), three washed out bridges, two lying drivers (pafupi, pafupi) and a PCV desperate to ET

On the fifth matola ride, there appeared to be FIVE MILLION STOPS, four marriage offers, three washed out bridges, two lying drivers (pafupi, pafupi) and a PCV desperate to ETOn the sixth matola ride, there appeared to be SIX DRUNK AGOGOS, five million stops, four marriage offers, three washed out bridges, two lying drivers (pafupi, pafupi) and a PCV desperate to ET

On the seventh matola ride, there appeared to be SEVEN RANDOM FLASHES (who the hell is this?), six drunk agogos, five million stops, four marriage offers, three washed out bridges, two lying drivers (pafupi, pafupi) and a PCV desperate to ET

On the eighth matola ride, there appeared to be EIGHT BEGGING IWES (gimme chiponde!), seven random flashes (who the hell is this?), six drunk agogos, five million stops, four marriage offers, three washed out bridges, two lying drivers (pafupi, pafupi) and a PCV desperate to ET

On the ninth matola ride, there appeared to be NINE GOATS A BLEEPIN', eight begging iwes (gimme chiponde!), seven random flashes (who the hell is this?), six drunk agogos, five million stops, four marriage offers, three washed out bridges, two lying drivers (pafupi, pafupi) and a PCV desperate to ET

On the tenth matola ride, there appeared to be TEN BABIES CRYIN', nine goats a bleepin', eight begging iwes (gimme chiponde!), seven random flashes (who the hell is this?), six drunk agogos, five million stops, four marriage offers, three washed out bridges, two lying drivers (pafupi, pafupi) and a PCV desperate to ET

On the eleventh matola ride, there appeared to be ELEVEN BAGS OF MAIZE, ten babies cryin', nine goats a bleepin', eight begging iwes (gimme chiponde!), seven random flashes (who the hell is this?), six drunk agogos, five million stops, four marriage offers, three washed out bridges, two lying drivers (pafupi, pafupi) and a PCV desperate to ET

On the twelfth matola ride, there appeared to be TWELVE CRATES OF MOA, eleven bags of maize, ten babies cryin', nine goats a bleepin', eight begging iwes (gimme chiponde!), seven random flashes (who the hell is this?), six drunk agogos, five million stops, four marriage offers, three washed out bridges, two lying drivers (pafupi, pafupi) and a PCV desperate to ET

BASI!!!

As a final note, I am so thankful to everyone who contributed to the scrapbook my sister made for my birthday! It must have arrived while I was at IST; I received it when I returned to site. As I've been noting more and more frequently in my life here, God gives grace. I went to the post office and found the scrapbook on a Wednesday; Thursday morning my parents called with the news that my grandmother had passed away after several years of living with Alzheimer's. The words of friends, co-workers and family brought me much-needed comfort.
Though I'm missing Eggnog Lattes at Starbucks and most of all family, I still feel incredibly blessed and happy this holiday season. Merry Christmas!