I can't believe it's been three years since I was last in Ghana - having lived here for 7 months (2006 - 2007) and then again for a fortnight in 2008, it very much feels like coming home. So much is reassuringly the same - the colour and vibrancy of everyday life, the searing heat, the warm and welcoming people, the market sellers in Takoradi (many of whom still remember my name!). But things have moved on also - on a personal level, the music school is really developing well and Fiifi's children Emily and Jenny are now delightful, confident young girls of five and three (calling me 'Uncle James'). Having completed an MA and PGCE and now in my second year of teaching, I feel I have a lot moré to offer the music school. On a broader level, the Ghanaian economy seems to be changing - prices have gone up, there is more development, more cars on the road, and oil has been discovered - a development which should bring prosperity to the county, but has sadly seldom been the case in other African states.

I have been keen to return for many reasons - to further help develop the music school, to spend time with my Ghanaian friends, to learn more local music, and of course to return to the beautiful beach at Green Turtle Lodge. Not to mention the incredible food! So much to do in 14 days! (although it is always a mistake to try and do too much in Ghana due to the energy-sapping heat and the infinite flexibilities of 'Ghana time'!)

I arrived on Sunday evening to a humid and rainy Accra, which was refreshing - a bit like a warm shower! Fiifi came to meet me, and we then caught a tros-tros (shared transport, like a minibus), travelling through the night along the coastal road to Takoradi, where I am staying with Fiifi and his wife Justy, and their two daughters. Every morning I have been working in the music school, which is thriving. The teachers - Fiifi, Quasyon and Kokobush - are all progressing really well both as musicians and teachers. Whereas on my last trip they were learning the basics of music theory, this time I have been introducing them to score reading and analysis (Vivaldi's Four Seasons and Mozart's Symphony in G minor so far!) which they love. They have recently returned from a study trip to the UK, so we have discussed different teaching methods and I have introduced them to formal lesson planning (I wonder if many other people do that on holiday? Ofsted would be proud). I have been running practical workshops with a dozen children at the school each morning, developing ensemble and improvisational skills and working towards a performance of Haydn's 'Surprise' Symphony. They are delightful and so eager to learn, and has really reinforced my passion for teaching (infact, it is my initial experiences in Ghana five years that led to me to the PGCE)

What I love about my Ghana trips is the opportunity for true cultural exchange - as well as my teaching, I have introduced Fiifi to Michael Jackson through the amazing 'This Is It' DVD - it was hilarious watching Emily and Jenny copying the dance moves! I have also been expanding my experience of Ghanaian music through playing with local drumming and brass groups.My friend Podzo is an experienced master drummer, and he has been teaching me a number of new rhythms for traditional percussion (djembe, dun dun, bells, etc). Whilst he is a patient teacher, he can get frustrated at my ability to pick the intricate syncopations straight away! But he says that I 'learn fast' and my lessons provide much amusement to the local children, many of whom have not met an obruni ('white man' before), let alone one who plays the djembe! Also, I have been rehearsing with the brass group of my good friend Kokobush, who made a riotously infectious and joyous sound, driven by a Samba-esque percussion section. I have really enjoyed bringing this style to brass groups in England, and will record some videos for YouTube to help spread the word further! I carry my digital recorder everywhere me, making me feel like a kind of musical anthropologist! As always, I have been met by smiles and encouragement, especially when I converse in the local Fanti language (cue wide eyed expressions and more laughter!)

I've also caught up with my good friends Tom and Jo, an English couple who moved to Ghana 8 years ago to set up an eco-lodge on a beautiful palm fringed beach, where I spent many a happy weekend during my first stay. I'm glad that their lodge is still thriving, and I will head there tomorrow for a long weekend on their 'Secret Beach' for 3 days of camping under the stars, with fresh fish cooked on the fire, and cocktails made with fruit straight from the tree. Bliss. My guitar is packed already! I met up with Tom on Tuesday night for a long overdue catch up - we went to several 'spots' (outdoor bars/clubs) where we ate spicy goat kebabs and sank many bottles of the local Star beer (and felt horrendous the next morning!).

And then the main reason I came back... the food! Spicy tomato rice / beans with fresh fish form many of the staple meals here, along with an infinite number of variations on plantain ('Kelewelee' being my favourite - chunks of plantain fried in ginger and chilli, amazing!). I love stepping out of the music school into the bustle of the street and being able to buy from the numerous street sellers... talking of which it's time for lunch, so I will now sign off (I fancy yam chips with fresh octopus today!)

I will now be at the beach until Monday, so hopefully I will update my blog again next week at some point. Although, once I'm there I find it very hard to leave (apparently a recent visitor stayed for 6 months!) so if you don't hear from me for a while, don't worry - you'll know where to find me!