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Davao, Philippines
On August - to September 2009, I went on a journey with 3 of my dearest friends to the land of the Matigsalugs in Davao.
Our destination was Gumitan. From Manila, we took a 1 & ½-hour flight to Davao City, a 2-hour drive to Marilog District, and a 6-hour trek to Gumitan. It was an entire day's journey, well worth every river crossing, every step up and down the steep mountain slopes, and every moment spent under the searing heat of the sun.
I was underwhelmed by the vegetation (because i love love forests), but the sense of space is just overwhelming. The mountains and the sky seem to go on forever.
There was a tribal protocol to welcome us visitors. The chief of the tribe played the kubing, a musical instrument made of bamboo. The chief, elders, and leaders of the tribe were in traditional garb. We, the "Tribu Manila," were in tshirt, shorts, and slippers. And as a gift, we presented the Datu with...(drum roll here) Goldilock's polvoron!
It was harvest season for the Matigsalugs. We accompanied our host parents to their farmland to harvest the rice they planted last summer. The phrase "fields of gold" was a reality in Gumitan, as we were greeted by the sight of an entire mountainside of upland rice, with their golden grains all ripe for the picking. A morning's work yielded basketfuls. We also cleared out the weeds in the cornfields, and planted some root crops. Sharing in the experience of farm activities gave me a better appreciation for the hard work that is required in getting food from the farm to the table.
Afternoons were spent hanging out in the front porch, looking out at young children playing in front of the house, and chatting up with those who pass by.
Our hosts are extremely generous. They opened their house, and their hearts to us, treated us not as visitors, but as their daughters.
The entire community isn't any different. Where else in the world can you pass by a house, ask if you can sleep on the bench outside, and not only will the owner say yes, but give you a pillow as well?
The trip back to the city was more exciting and difficult at the same time. It rained every night that we stayed in the community so on our way back, the river was swollen, the water was waist deep and you cross it by either of 3 ways: wade in the water, ride on a horse, or let one of the guys carry you.
At some point during the hike, I went along with the Matigsalug men, and boy were they fast! I wasnt close to running, but I had to walk really fast just to keep up with them. And they were in slippers, and carrying sacks on their shoulders. They are just unbelievably aswesome.
Then it was off to the craziest motorcycle ride ever. We were going way too fast uphill, downhill , mostly uphill on this dirt road, where loose rocks could easily topple us over. And then a jeepney ride overloaded with people, bags, sacks of rice and corn, and baskets of vegetables. We had 2 flat tires, had to wait by the side of the road for the tire to be fixed, and for another jeep (this was after the second tire got busted). The entire trip was an adventure. But after a day of walking, I was asleep for the most part of the journey back to the city.
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