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Travelling on the Silk Road is like stepping back through time. Staring out the train window and watching the cracked mud flats and wind farms, you really are in the middle of nowhere. We booked all 5 train trips for the Silk Road in Xi'an due to the tight timing and thought with a range of durations from 5-24h why not give all the Chinese train classes a run for their money, from the hard seater 'cattle' class to soft sleeper.
We were not disappointed with the real Chinese experience. Our last day train trip (11h) from Liuyuan to Wulumuqi was a jam packed hard seater experience. While waiting to board the train amongst the usual pushing and shoving about 80 people carrying bags of rice and other assortments exited the train. This reminded me of those clown cars you saw as a child, when it seems like an impossible number of bodies emerge from the car. Thinking that the carriage must be almost empty, we were surprised to find as we entered our carriage that the train still appeared full to capacity. People were sitting 2 to a seat, on top of seats, on the floor and on their byo chairs on the floor. I must admit, I admire the creativity and forward thinking of my fellow passengers! It's even more entertaining when the food, drink or merchandise trolleys come through, about every 30 minutes. Suddenly it's like the red sea parting with people squeezing into each other so the trolleys can pass.
We stopped in Jiayuguan for some whirlwind touring of the old Jiayuguan Fort and Overhanging Wall. Back in the day of the Silk Road this was the last 'stop' of imperial china before stepping out into the wilderness. The overhanging wall is part of the Great Wall of China, but of a completely contrasting material of mud and sand.
Dunhuang is like stepping into the movie set of Aladdin - complete with camels! The beautiful Mingshashan sand dunes are just a 15 minute bus ride from the centre of town. Standing on top of the dunes you get a true appreciation for this oasis town in the middle of a barren desert. We visited the intricate Mogao Buddhist Caves. Hundreds of caves were carved into the side of a cliff and temples constructed inside (unfortunately you're not allowed to take photos).
Heading into Urumqi there was the distinct notice of leaving the 'typical' China and stepping into middle eastern territory. With Uyghur written on signs (similar to Arabic) and a change in cuisine, it really felt like we were on the road to a different world. Arriving in Kashgar was something else. Our hostel was located right next to Id Kah Mosque (the biggest Mosque in China). We could hear the calls to prayer from our room.
By far the highlights were the infamous Sunday Bazaar and Livestock Market. Although the Sunday Bazaar is a must-see for tourists, it is a market for the locals. You can literally buy anything here, from woks, to washing machines, to fabric, hardware and kitchen spices. The infamous 'boish boish' was heard around every corner, which translates to you only having a few seconds before a tractor is coming full speed into you and you have no choice but to move. The livestock market was a completely contrasting vibe, with hundreds of Uyghur men standing in chit chat groups bargaining over sheep, goats and cattle. Our experience was complete with Aidan having a run in with a pick pocket at a local food market. Luckily the guy didn't get away with any money, but only because Aidan went to pay for something only to find someone else's hand in his pocket!
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