Today we decide to visit Zaveri Bazaar, a market area in central Mumbai that is mentioned as a place worth visiting. Unfortunately we haven't taken into account that today is Sunday, and all the markets are closed. Nevertheless the area's interesting and we take a look around. Even though it's an inner-city area, and quite poor, the thing we notice immediately is that we don't get hassled by beggars and touts, who confine their activities to more touristed areas. Sarah sees a sign advertising the "Upper Crust Food and Wine Expo", so we head off to the welcome airconditioning of the World Trade Centre (yes, every city seems to have one). There are lots of trade stands where you can sample all kinds of Indian food, plus cooking displays and talks on various food-related topics. Just for the fun of it, we go to a 30-minute talk on Entertaining. Clive's keen to know how you persuade people to bring decent beer, and the best way of apologising to the neighbours the next day. The lady giving the talk is clearly a 'high society' hostess, and it's apparent that she's not quite down at our level when she says "It's important to ensure that the waiters are well groomed, and don't allow them to interract with the guests any more than is necessary". Back at the hotel in the evening we catch up with some travellers we met at breakfast - Eric and Margaret Scott. After sharing a few Kingfishers at the hotel we head off for a meal, then gravitate to CafÁé Mondegar, the one with the jukebox. This time Clive's brought his glasses and can actually see what music's available. There's a good atmosphere in the place, and we spend the evening competing as to who can choose the best songs. Good songs are appreciated throughout the cafÁé with singing and clapping, and as well as some 'Western' classics, there are a few good Indian tracks played. We pour ouselves out of Café Mondegar at about 12.30am having had that one Kingfisher too many.