Wednesday 7 December 2005
By use of some blankets to pad out the inadequate mattresses, we manage to have something akin to a reasonable night's sleep on the very hard beds. "It will do our backs good" says Sarah. The MTDC resort has a resident pack of dogs. The male dogs, numbering about seven, strut along the beach in the morning, guarding their territory in a purposeful way, leaving their mark on rocks, and eyeing up the local talent (two b****es which both look to have recently had pups). Then, when anything catches their attention, they all race headlong down the beach to check it out. Once the day warms up they're probably to be found snoozing under an awning somewhere. Clive wants to be re-incarnated as one of these dogs. What a life!
We opt to eat breakfast at one of the tables on the patio adjacent to the restaurant. Once seated we notice that it doesn't appear to have been cleaned up since the previous evening - paper and bottles litter the area. When we question staff about this we're told the cleaners don't arrive until 9am. (Interestingly, the next day the same area has been cleaned up by 8am - was it anything to do with our comment we wonder).
We set off to explore the surrounding area and soon discover that the resort covers a much wider area than we had first thought. In particular there's a large area of tents and huts under a canopy of trees adjacent to a sea inlet, providing alternative accommodation to the rooms we're staying in. It's also got its own restaurant area - a much nicer place to eat than the restaurant in the main complex. At the moment there are very few people staying in the tented area, but according to an American couple we talk to there was a large party here until yesterday - something to do with a yoga seminar (or was it yogurt seminar?). This place is obviously popular with what we assume to be Indian honeymooning couples. One couple in particular spend hours frolicking in the waves, just like you might see on an advert for a honeymoon resort. The interesting thing from our point of view is that the woman remains fully clothed, and this seems to be the same for all Indian women on the beach. We're aware that there is a modesty thing with Indian women, perhaps even a religious aspect, but it surprises us that at this kind of resort, where the beach and the sea are so dominant, that the women do not wear swimsuits.
The other thing we notice is that although there are plenty of locals in the water, none actually swim, and it occurs to us that few Indians can swim. We've seen few examples of public swimming pools in India, none seem to exist in Mumbai for example, so there's not much opportunity for local people to learn to swim. In the evening we opt to eat at the restaurant by the tents. In contrast to the glare of the flouros in the main restaurant, here it's so dark you can hardly see across the table. Clive definitely has no chance of reading the menu without a torch!
We eat with Costanza, an Italian lady who is travelling India on her own. Very brave of her we think! She's a teacher of Italian as a second language, and is very well travelled. We have a lovely evening sharing travel experiences, but because of the darkness we've no idea what we've eaten! Earlier in the day we'd managed to obtain some extra blankets to further pad out our mattresses. (This request had had to be referred to the resort manager for approval, but it didn't require us to complete any paperwork). With the benefit of the few centimetres of extra thickness that this provided, we settled down to a good night's sleep.
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