There's no difficulty in obtaining good food and drink in Goa - the difficulty is in paying for it! This is particularly so when you buy a beer, or snack, across the bar. Bars and restaurants don't seem to have tills as we know them. Instead the charge is written up on a piece of paper, together with carbon copies. So when you buy your beer, it's not normal to simply pay for it there and then. That would be too simple.

There's a rigmarole that you have to go through... First, when you have finished eating and/or drinking, you have to catch the barman's eye and give him the 'international sign of the bill'. This is a signal indicating a signature or, alternatively, the hands held palms together then opened out like a book. Catching the barman's eye is not always easy, particularly if the bar is busy or if there's cricket on TV.

The appropriate waiter (note, not just any waiter, but the one who has been serving you) will then get together all the chits and hand-write the items onto a bill together with the cost, total this up, and add the tax. He'll then put the bill into one of the ubiquitous maroon folders with brass corners, before handing it to you closed. You then scrutinise the bill (mistakes are common) and place the required notes inside, before leaving it on the bar or table.

The waiter/barman by this time has gone off to attend to other customers, or is watching the cricket again. Eventually he will get back to you and take the folder, with payment, away. Shortly after, the folder is returned with change (if any) inside. It's then appropriate to give a 10% tip, and again this is placed in the maroon folder which is returned, closed, to the waiter or barman, who looks inside, discovers the tip, and delivers a humble "Thank you Sir/Madam". The ritual is now over and you are free to get on with your life. Remember, this process applies whether you have had a full meal, or just a couple of beers at the bar. At least 10 minutes should be allowed for it to run its full course.