One of the constant features of Indian cities is the traffic noise, particularly the honking of horns. Indian drivers hoot their horns at any excuse. In fact, many trucks have on the back the words "Horn Please" because it's actually expected that the horn is sounded to let the other driver know that you're there. Most vehicles don't have wing mirrors, or if they do they've been folded in to allow the vehicle to go through narrower gaps, so drivers don't necessarily see vehicles behind them or as they overtake.

It's quite common when traffic is waiting at red lights for everyone to turn off their engines - the honking stops and there is a welcome silence for a minute or two. However, the moment the lights start to change to green everyone immediately leans on the horn, even before they've re-started their engines!! Mumbai buses have a particularly unusual horn - it's simply a bulb horn with the rubber bulb by the drivers right hand, and it sounds just like an angry goose. Imagine hundreds of angry geese and you've some idea of what a typical Mumbai main street sounds like!

Today we take a train ride to Varsai Road, which is nearly at the limit of the suburban services from Churchgate station and takes 90 mins. Our destination is Bassein fort, which is a 20 minute auto-rickshaw ride from the railway station. We negotiate a return journey price of R200 with the rickshaw driver, including a wait of one hour while we look around the fort. Bassein was a fortified city build by some Portuguese blokes in the 16th Century. 200 years later some other blokes came and attacked it and, as is the way with these things, knocked it about a bit. All that remains now is the outer wall, which is substantial, and the ruins of some of the inner larger buildings, including a large well and chimney. In all it covers a wide area and is very atmospheric. It's heavily overgrown and this contributes to the atmosphere - as you walk around you're suddenly confronted with impressive moody structures.

Although it's a Sunday, there are few people around - some kids playing cricket in the ruins of the old hall, and some artists painting in watercolours. But the best thing about it is that there are no hawkers or beggars, or anyone hassling you, a common feature of any tourist spot in India. Mind you, it's just as well that there aren't too many people about, as some of the structures look extremely dangerous and could collapse at any moment.

We're back in the safety of Colaba in the evening - safe that is apart from the possibility of food poisoning, a traffic accident, choking from air polution.........