Whilst everyone at home was celebrating boxing day with left over roast meat and potatoes (its all we could think about) and nursing a few large hangovers, im sure, we were headed for Udaipur, labelled the romantic city thanks to its lake palaces used in the James Bond movie Octop**** First a stop in Ranakpur, right in the heart of mango country. The landscape had changed dramatically and we could definitely see that we had left the northern great Thar desert region for the more leafy hilly southeastern region. A beautiful drive through the forests and some quaint old villages where oxen are still used to turn the flour mills and we arrived at probably the most beautiful temples Dan and I had ever seen. Carved from milk-white marble, the complicated series of 29 halls, supported by a forest of 1444 pillars (no two alike), is the finest Jain temple in Rajasthan apparently and the most important in India. They certainly impressed us, that's for sure. Due to my camera battery dying at precisely the wrong moment, ie as soon as we entered, I spent the whole time calling Dan here and there to take a photo of this pillar and that carving until I could tell from his exasperated sighs that I was maybe being slightly annoying. Oops!